November 23, 2024

VIDEO: John Explains the Logic Behind His Crazy Caterpillar Tunnel Design


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Curtis Stone started Green City Acres, a commercial urban farm called Green City Acres out of Kelowna, BC, Canada, in 2010. His mission is to show others how they can grow a lot of food on small plots of land and make a living from it. Using DIY and simple infrastructure, one can earn a significant living from their own back yard or someone else’s.

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26 thoughts on “VIDEO: John Explains the Logic Behind His Crazy Caterpillar Tunnel Design

  1. John mentioned re-bar between hoops. I would suggest Galvanized pipe or P.V.C. pipe that would allow the rope to go through and eliminate a rust issue from the re-bar. As far as corner anchors , you could drill the corner posts and install eye bolts, attach rope or cable to 18-24" anchor posts (1/2 or 3/4" galvanized pipe would work well) with eye bolts attached to them and drive the anchor posts in the ground at an angle in toward the greenhouse. Just a suggestion.

  2. This guy's a character, love his assertiveness. Good to share this kind of information, because this idea spread out among many people will eventually develope a Small Farmer version of Gutter Tunnels. Which is the BEST form of greenhouse scaling for large ag. It'll make the caterpillar tunnel look like a boyscout tent

  3. Yes! This will be happening this year. I just took down 200ft to move and I think this will be what I try next. Would like to see/know how he takes down and stores plastic for the winter though! Another awesome vid Curtis!

  4. This would never work in Ohio where we get wind gusts of 60, 70 miles an hour.
    Check with the USDA they have a program for getting a free greenhouse every year. We are now getting our 2nd greenhouse, seasonal extender that will be 100' by 100'. Peter@marthasfarm.com

  5. Now on those pre-drilled holes why not pound in another pipe that’s .25 diameter larger at ground level so rather than constantly beating up and loosening a dirt hole pushing those rib posts in and taking them out etc you could simply slide them down into a larger diameter pipe and be more sturdy and less chance of a dirt hole loosening. Once that dirt hole is worn out that spot is almost unusable to put a post into..

    Thoughts? Great set up over all though

  6. For not much extra effort you could add more longitudinal stability by driving in star droppers/pickets on each corner and maybe also in the middle and bolting the arches to them. I'd also thread the rebar he plans to use to weigh down the plastic between the arches through some poly pipe to protect the plastic.

  7. Appreciate the video, the pros and cons were great to listen to!
    Beautiful thoughts and explanation that will benefit all farmers!
    TY

    BTW, were those handles on his sandbags… any links to purchase those?

  8. Found something that may help John. Found on Amazon Australia, but they should be in most areas.

    "Earth Auger Shed Anchor Kit – 1000 LBS Pressure Tested Hold Per Stake"

    Drilled into ground with cordless drill. 1 or 2 at each corner should negate most wind loads. Bolt or tie the bar that is attached to the rib in the ground. Would allow anchors for the middle (where plastic flaps & causes issues at corners) but also to tie down the rebar or rope at the ends of the mid rib areas.

    Just a thought.

  9. I apologize if I missed it but, he kept saying he needed to secure those end hoops into the ground. But I missed HOW one is supposed to do that???? Kinda left me hanging. (???) Also, I wasn't clear as to where rain water was supposed to go that found its way into those valleys where he spoke of the rebar holding it down. A big rain storm can dump a lot of water so that's something kind of important. No disrespect intended, only my own observations. I may have missed something. Thanks for posting!

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