November 21, 2024

VIDEO: Blight: 5 Ways to Control Potato Blight (Late Blight)


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Potato blight first shows itself as brownish-black spots on leaves, but before long the potato foliage can completely collapse and the potatoes themselves will rot.

Unfortunately, in many areas potato blight is inevitable. This persistent disease can ruin potato crops in next to no time so it’s important to take steps to limit the damage before it’s too late.

In this video we share five ways to deal with potato blight when it strikes, helping you to limit damage and ensure you still get a crop of potatoes.

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29 thoughts on “VIDEO: Blight: 5 Ways to Control Potato Blight (Late Blight)

  1. I have tried Sarpo Mara this year as it is supposed to be blight resistant  out of the 4 varieties I planted Sarpo Mira is the only one to get blight I had to cut off all the tops last week t try and save them

  2. When this starts to appear you can get special spray that kills the blight you have to get this condition very early if it appears on the leaf or otherwise potatoes are ruined proper store where they sell seed for growing vegetables should have this type spray for blight or garden type centre

  3. My container potatoes don’t have the brown spot but are wilting even though I water and fertilize-Any suggestions? They are indoors since it’s still too cold in Alberta. I had some potatoes started growing and just planted them in grow bags.

  4. Hi we are growing potatoes for the first time and our plants got devastated by blight we live in Trinidad W.I. they were coming along nicely but when they started flowering they got the blight we will not wet the leaves next time.

  5. I'm growing my potatoes in grow bags and one looks like it has blight. My question is do I toss the mix can it be used again and what can I grow in it if I can keep it

  6. I think I have blight, but probably fusarium wilt, although there are some leaves with brown spots. I have a device that creates aqueous ozone with a level of 1-2 ppm. I have poured it on the potato soil, as well as sprayed them with it. I am also going to try the baking soda spray which is supposed to help. I am hoping since ozone kills just about every pathogen, virus, fungus, amoebas, bacteria, etc etc., that it will help. Here's keeping my fingers crossed!!

  7. I have just had to deal with blight on my maincrop potatoes 🙁 – question: I used straw (or hay) to mulch the potatoes, do I have to dispose of the straw as well as the leaves and stems? I have already removed all the stems and the potatoes.

  8. I'm from India, Our potato farm land has infected by late blite, we identified it at the 4th day and has sprayed Acrobat fungicide on 4th day itself but after 7 days 80 percentage of our farm land has infected. It was full healthy plants with full of flowers, but now Just for 7 days around 60 of leaves are gone, how can I save them from this disease?

  9. I'm in NE Texas, Zone 7B. We are being inundated with rain! My no-dig potatoes are in in raised beds and are "scheduled" for harvest in just a 2 or 3 weeks. Because of the rain, people have been advising me to harvest all of them now, but most of the plants are green and healthy. However, a plant or two look like they might have late blight, although, not as bad as some of the images I've seen. Should I dig up that plant, just in case it IS blight? Also, if I plant (blackeyed) peas in that bed right after I harvest all of these potatoes (this year), will I still have to rotate the potatoes next year?

  10. I have joined Blight watch which is a free organisation set up to assist farmers and market gardeners but open to amateur gardeners as well – they forecast when blight mat hit your area and send an alert – I use vitax Copper mixture purchased from my local garden centre. This is a trace element tonic for plants and not a fungicide – however I have found the copper elements do protect the plants from infection and/or slows down the spread of the disease. The temperature and humidity have to be above certain levels to trigger blight and this is known as the Hutton Criteria or a Hutton Period – which is basically :-
    The Hutton Criteria :-

    Two consecutive days:

    Each day has a minimum temperature of 10°C

    Each day has at least six hours with relative humidity ≥ 90%

    So if a Hutton period is forecast I spray in advance – however I can only spray the mix once every two weeks to ensure no excessive build up of chemical. Wet weather increases the risk and reduces the effectiveness of the copper mixture spray – but for me this has been the best protection I can find. The old fungicides that my old books quote have all been banned – copper was used by vineyards over 300 years ago to combat botrytis (Bordeaux mixture) so there is something about the copper mixture that really helps and this product is sold for use on edible crops.

    But I still suffer and some years I have to bite the bullet and cut the haulms at ground level and burn them and hope the crop is not too small or worse affected.

  11. How can I tell the difference between blight and just the plant starting to die off? Mine had a small bloom and now there is one stem that is yellowing. I was thinking this was just the plant beginning to die off but now I'm concerned it could be blight. First time growing potatoes, have them in a grow bag.

  12. Since potato blight is a fungal disease, it makes sense to me to do a preventative organic antifungal spray. There are a number of organic antifungal essential oils that can be added to water in a sprayer. That is what I intend to do this year before any kind of problem even shows up.

  13. I have 2 boxes with potatoes in them. One did just fine but the other just seemed to die overnight, that was last year. I thought I got all the potatoes out but it happened again this year. Is my soil ruined? Does anyone know any tricks to disinfect the soil lol I don't know if that sounds stupid?

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