How we grow and use cover crops!!
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Dang, im stuck here in shitty ontario for now, I miss bc sooo bad.
btw, are you gonna grow out your beard or what? lol it makes you look much older
The root systems of your cover crops will also add organic matter to the soil. The rye may even have more root than top. During your normal rotation you are building some organic matter into the soil just by growing crops that leave intact root systems in the soil (so your lettuces and mustards function as actively harvested cover crops). Aside from holding the soil together the roots also feed the microbes in the soil, both while the plant is living and actively producing carbohydrate exudates and after the plant dies and the root matter itself is consumed. Once the roots are consumed they also leave behind micro tunnels for air and water to pass through (as well as all the chelated nutrients left from the process of decomposition), which keeps everything alive and working. So cover crops also function to keep the soil structure open and intact. I like growing summer squashes in a new bed just to harvest their root structure into the soil. The squash roots are thick, widespread, and fast growing so they quickly open up and inoculate pathways through the lower soil structure. Soil nitrifying bacteria will colonize on all the aerated moist surfaces in the subsoil, so even plants that don't have the Rhizobia symbiosis still help with some nitrogen availability. When temperatures are around 15C though most bacteria are fairly inactive. A good deal of the nitrogen that gets fixed for wintertime is fixed by lightning during rainstorms. Nitrogen fixation by lightning is why plants seem to jump in growth after a thunderstorm.
Sorry to hear about your compost guy.
I give a friend of mine sawdust created from my chainsaw, milling, and wood working/turning products. He has a nice garden. Not sure how much of a connection there really is. I know he really wanted the cedar I had.
Have you ever considered applying a thick layer of leaves as a protective layer for the soil as well as a nitrogen fixer?
In your location, will the rye get as far along as just starting the flowering stage before you terminate? I'm curious see how well your flail mower handles a whole lot of residue (if you're lucky and have a great stand) and how you work with all of that residue without a tractor and plow. An Amish friend on mine uses an old no. 6 sickle, puts plastic down right on top of the cut rye cover crop and plants thru the plastic but you can't do that with a lot of the greens that you grow. I'll definitely be watching your videos in the spring to see how it's done. Thanks for all of the good videos.
will You the rotor tiller to turn under the rye and peas or just the tilther and go shallow ?
the other problem is rain leaching fertilty away. another reason for cover cropping.
organic matter in your beds will attract worms. win win situation
Now I see you're happy with peas and rye. Your crops need less and fewer nutrients. Mostly greens that use the "N". Deep rooted nutrient harvesting plants need more time. Also, you may loose the plot. Will you use a different approach on the property you own?
Pat Battle uploaded a video on Small scale no till practices about a month ago on Living Web Farms. Talked a lot about cover crop practices. You might be able to take away something from it.
What kind of peas are you using for the cover crop?
what's your experience with using shredded leaves as a mulch and organic matter input?
have you tried to "transplant" the spent pea microgreen flats as a cover crop?
So far I'm collecting all none meat kitchen scrapes from one of my restaurants. I'm considering trying to expand this to other restaurants I work with. I provide 5 gallons buckets to them and pickup once a week.
A lot people say that when you till the crop into the soil that when it starts to decompose, it will lock up nitrogen. How will you handle that aspect of turning the cover crop into the soil.
Rye helps NITROGEN. Some GOOD NEWS for YOU. Rye is the best cool season cover for absorbing unused soil NITROGEN. The fibrous root system can take up and hold a much as 100 lb per acre until spring. With 25 to 50 lb more typical. If you need this source please ask THANKS, your channel is fantastic.
my friend, do you grow tropical fruit trees in cold weather or green house?
Thank you .
Damn car alarm..
Have a look at Charles Dowding videos on No Till Organic farming. In regards to putting an old carpet onto a cover crop without mowing it. Without disturbing the ground, cut a whole and plant your chitted potatoes. Every time you move the soil you loose nutrients. Keep the soil movement to a minimum.
Curtis, I tried planting cover crop of peas, radish and wheat here in Penticton, but it was mostly eaten (seeds and seedlings) by quail. Did you have any issues with quail and how did you deal with it? Thanks
lol… "construction backfill" here includes sand, gravel, large rocks & bolders big enough that a good strong man can't lift. No good for any digging or inserting any kind of posts.
Hi Curtis, what varieties of rye and peas do you use? Does it matter?
I live in Wyoming. Very cold winters here. Thank you.
Did you innoculate the peas before sowing the C.C.?
When it's convenient, would you do a short update on this. I'm just curios on how much coverage it has obtained..:-)
Have you considered rolling the crop to keep moisture in and protect the soil?
I know this is an old vid but check out balansa clover it’s the cheapest legume I can find. Hard to get in quantities under 10 pounds though. Seeds full rate at 6 lb an acre.
what species of plants are that green fence/are they green every season?
I just tilled a 600 sq foot section of my yard. Should I plant my crimson clover now to cover and then mow it down in March? I’m new to all this 🙂