December 23, 2024

VIDEO: NO TILL Winter RYE LATE Planting TOMATO Harvest FINAL RESULTS


NO TILL Winter RYE LATE Planting TOMATO Harvest FINAL RESULTS. Please Join me in seeing these two amazing Harvest.

https://www.instagram.com/iamorganicgardening

https://www.facebook.com/iamorganicgardening

Subscribe to My CHANNEL : ttps://www.youtube.com/user/iamnjorganic

Mycorrhizal list : http://www.rootnaturally.com/PlantListMycorrhizal.pdf

30 thoughts on “VIDEO: NO TILL Winter RYE LATE Planting TOMATO Harvest FINAL RESULTS

  1. Iowa 5b…Tomatoes did well, overall garden did well, but could have done better. I've been making compost extracts from my worm castings and that seems to help. I am cover cropping with medium red clover, mammoth red clover, and I have winter rye in a bed. This is my first time doing this. I've been learning about soil health through your channel and through the Soil Food Web school.

  2. Zone 6b in nj for me. Tomatoes did well for the deer, squirrels and chipmunks! I did get some but the animals got the lions share. Still a few growing but seem to be taking very long to ripen. My second year gardening and I will be putting down a mix bag of cover crops based on your suggestion. Love what you're doing btw

  3. I can confirm what he is saying. I started my garden last fall with winter rye and some other covercrops. In the spring I cut it all down, covered it with cardbord, put some good planting soil on top and planted, mid of may, my tomatos and peppers. Until now I have no disease on my plants, even if they are not recommended for planting outside a greenhouse or, at least, a shelter. I`ve got lots of produce. Only harm was the sun, some leaves and fruits got a sunburn. And I although planted some pereannuals beside them or let them be where they are, e.g. roses. Adding some basil and marygold was helpful too, I think. Will repeat it next year on a larger scale. I´m in germany, zone 7b.

  4. North Central Florida, zone 9a. All the tomato leaves eaten by a wave of giant black & yellow grasshoppers. Guess I got the diatomaceous earth too late. I won't make that mistake again.

  5. Hi Mark, I'm in zone 7 far north of Seattle and near the water. I had a wonderful season for tomatoes. I've been saving seeds for many years now and have a cherry red tomato and a sugar gold cherry tomato that has been loaded with fruit each year. I love them and they're so reliable.

  6. Mark
    Zone 4b upper peninsula of Michigan. Had awful luck in last 4 years with tomatoes. Moved to separate garden where I could use drip irrigation and not get leaves wet unless it rained. First time ever I did this. Followed your way of doing absolutely nothing no fertilizer this year(in fall added aged cow manure),no thinning or removing suckers, nothing to combat blight. Just a fence and lots of mulch. Never did so little. They were on there own. Planted June 15th, after all frost over. Best year ever for plants. Better boys and goliaths. Plants are 6 feet plus, a couple 7 foot. Tomatoes galore, over 2 lbs each. Everyone around here have been done for weeks and mine still have over 30 percent green and growing. Plants are three feet wide and branches all the way to the ground. Always for last 10 years been plagued with black spot, and destroyed everything. Always fussed and pruned and fertilized and prepared for blight, which I could never stop. What a year doing nothing. Followed your lead. Thanks.

  7. Madison, WI Zone 5a. Tomatoes grew great! Bunker crop that are still green and growing without blight. Grew several plants in terminated winter rye with various companion plants and several plants in leaf mold/horse manure with winter rye and companion plants.

  8. Nice harvest. When I lived in NY we use to put the unripe green tomatoes in a paper bag with a banana to force them to ripen but thank God we don't have to do that anymore since we moved to Arizona back in 2018. The only issue here is bird pressure, they love tomatoes too so we hang bird netting all around our raised beds with great results.

  9. Zone 3b in Alaska. I got some starts from a friend but only got green tomatoes this year. a pretty hard frost hit them and they got mushy before I could save them. I’ll try again next year with mini cold frames to start the earlier in the spring and not get transplant shock.

  10. Hey Mark, using your channel as inspiration, I have just planted my first backyard garden cover crop! I had a 5 gallon bucket of soybeans left over from my planting of 50 acres back in June. Since the seed was essentially no extra cost to me I figured why not try to use them. I had cleared more of my yard with it's pesky Bermuda grass (that I unfortunately had to rototill one time just to be able to rake it out the Bermuda grass rhizomes) so I figured the soybeans could canopy out pretty quick (one month) with such a thick planting. I plan to get some winter rye sowed after I chop and drop the soybeans following frost. The soybeans were inoculated with NDure inoculate for nitrogen fixation. I plan to water it down over winter with compost tea or just apply fine compost to top of soil where the rye is growing (while it is short). I want to grow the rye high and use it as a mulch like you are doing for next years tomatoes. I may get a few other cover crop seed (like Fava bean, winter wheat, Hairy vetch or Alfalfa) to mix in to get a more diverse cover. Keep up the good work with your awesome videos.. love your channel. I will let you know how all this goes.

  11. Zone 3: we had 30 tomato plants in a 35ft. x 4ft bed. We grow winter rye over winter till memorial day using a poly tunnel in spring to warm the soil, cut rye with a weed wacker on memorial day and plant tomatos in "walls of water" under the 5ft tall poly tunnel using the winter rye and additional grass clippings as a mulch. Picking tomatos mid August – mid Sept. Then cut plants off at ground level, add some compost and plant winter rye again. We also just had four hard frosts (mid 20's) in a row.

  12. Here in the south, zone 8b, the tomatoes did really well and tasted great, but those plants that got shade in the afternoon were much less stressed and have lasted.

  13. I’m in subtropical Australia. Like Florida and no frosts but seasons are reversed. I plant and harvest about same times as you do because summer here is too hot and humid for anything much except watermelons. We’ve had drought for two years now but my tomatoes have been the best this winter. They were planted as seedlings just as the virus hit in late March and ive been harvesting for a week and they will crop for the next few weeks until the humidity gets the plants and fruit fly gets the fruit. I like the old fashioned grosse lisse to eat fresh but have some nice Roma’s coming on for freezing. I can grow most cherry tomatoes most of the year because the small fruit develop before the fruit fly eggs hatch and the plants are so easy and tough they just come up on their own.

  14. Wisconsin zone 5a. No frost here yet. Maybe next week. Most of my cherry Tomatoes are volunteers. They are filling a large fermenting jar every week. Some go into the dehydrator. Family eat them up like candy.

  15. I am in zone 7a and I definitely had a tomato problem I would love insight on! I had big beautiful plants which set plenty of fruit, but it never ripened. What deficiency is that? Even though my plot is on the lower end of qualifying for full sun, I don’t think that’s it because I’ve grown tomatoes in that spot before. Help?

  16. 6a I had stink bug damage so i lost a lot of fruit neighbors had frost but I didn't, so finally i am getting some nice tomatoes as the stink bugs left the plants will cover my garden in winter rye this year

  17. I live in lower Michigan zone 5b/6a. We had record setting heat in June and July with little rain. I was able to water through it. Been here 25 years… best tomato crop ever! An amazing abundance of tasty, unusually large tomatoes from July through early September. Cool, wet, September finally slowed it down, and now nearly finished.

  18. Central Jersey, 6B. Hit by early blight, but still got plenty of fruits, and still going strong even without much foliage. Planted cherry and grape varieties through volunteer seedlings (amazingly productive for several years now without purchasing seedlings! I am saving some seeds this year, becoming heirloom?). Beefsteak by seeds directly sow in the garden. Mulched with wood chips and never watered the entire season!). Worst plants were cucumbers (birds did the most damage as they pick on the new fruits and shoots, bacteria wilt killed the remaining), and zucchini (vine borer). Best have been loofahs (hundreds of 1-2 pounders off 4 plants) and pumpkins (40 or so off 5 plants, each more than 10 pounds! Still fruting). Learned a lot from your videos! Thank you Mark!

  19. 6b Pennsylvania, We had a great season. We grew heirloom, hybrid and various cherry tomatoes. We grew in ground and in self wicking containers. We had some blossom end rot in the self wicking containers, i didn't have the evaporated sea minerals I'm supposed to use. We also had some splitting on some of the tops both in ground and containers. Some of them looked like small pumpkins the Old German, beefsteak and super steaks in particular were huge. We also planted sucker cuttings in late June. Tonight we hit 30° for about half an hour and it's back to 33 now lol. We still have some stuff out .

  20. You mentioned unusual weather and I can't help but believe that progressively, we will get weirder and more extreme weather every single year, no matter where you live. I think gardeners need to adapt, to adopt organic methods of gardening that will protect and improve health of their soil and make their plants more resilient to weather extremes (hail, extreme wind and rain, sudden temperature dips, extreme heat, etc, earlier and later frosts), choose hardy seed varieties, and adopt other innovative strategies to protect their vegetables and plants. Build cold frames, invest in quality frost covers, heavily mulch your plants, plant cover crops, encourage biodiversity. Choose heirloom/open-pollinated varieties and SAVE THE SEEDS every single year as the plant DNA will slowly become accustomed/climatized to your environment and will do better in subsequent years.

    Many climate change reports point out that we can expect massive decreases in global crop yields due to climate change, as the years progress. To not realize that this will affect us also as smaller-sized (e.g. backyard, urban, small rural plot, kitchen gardeners) gardeners would be a grave error and may result in many giving up on gardening as a hobby or to improve their health and subsidize the cost of their groceries.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *