December 23, 2024

VIDEO: Video Response to MIgardener MYTH from MY Back to Eden No Till Gardening Method 101 with wood chips


Video Response to MIgardener MYTH from MY NO TILL Back to Eden gardening Method 101 with wood chips. One FREE Nitrogen source..
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Nitrogen fixation by Rhizobium bacteria increases mycorrhizal colonization.

Mycorrhizal colonization of roots INCREASES nitrogen fixation by Rhizobium.

MIgardener video link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lURVIHJmBDQ

27 thoughts on “VIDEO: Video Response to MIgardener MYTH from MY Back to Eden No Till Gardening Method 101 with wood chips

  1. I'm in Florida and have these purple shamrocks and green ones too that grow everywhere. They have small tubers(?) which makes them very hardy in cold. Are they doing my plants good? They are like a large clover. Sorry if this a stupid question, but I'm spreading the tubers in my raised beds.

  2. Has MIgardener responded or anything? It seems to me that you’ve proven your assertion in a humble, kind, and caring yet scientifically rock solid manner. I love that about you Mark! Keep up the good work.

  3. Dr Ingham seems to ignore the equal importance mineral balance in the soil. Studies have shown if you have too much P I your soil the fungus will be blocked from symbiosis with the plants. so if you don't do testing and balance minerals first you will limit the health and success of your soil and food.

    thanks for showing her reference to these other studies. This is good info too.

  4. So how do we determine which plants are ecto and which ones are endo mychorrhizal friendly, and when you know that difference does that mean planting different kinds of legumes?

  5. I think you missed an opportunity in your demonstration to point out the key reason for no-till, namely that it breaks the fungi hyphae, kills the roots, and a few weeks all the symbiotic systems in the soil have crashed. I watch lots of gardener vlogs (Curtis Stone, Richard Perkins, Migardener, and I just subscribed here) and apply the Trust and Verify axiom. I "Trust" that the people putting up content are sincere, but I try to "Verify" what is being said as accurate. Preconceived notions often don't hold up, or don't provide the benefit. I am struck by they difference between vegetable practices and commodity no-till AG. Vegetable AG largely still values tidy "brown" beds with 1 green plant surrounded by straw bailed somewhere else, while no-tlll commodity AG is now planting corn and soybeans into stands of 4 foot tall cover crops and trying to have living roots growing 365 days a year to feed the soil microbes. Just look at the central valley of CA versus Harbourview Farms corn/beans in Maryland. They are worlds apart. You need only look at the fact that you are kludging together tools and methods to get you starts into the ground to validate that vegetable gardening is behind and these newer practices. Keep throwing out your ideas and show use both your successes and your failures and we will all learn something. Feed the microbes, build soil, eat the pretty stuff that grows on top …

  6. I'm just catching up on your videos from scratch – awesome! It has been a huge help to me, I'm a little addicted. But I was wondering about exactly this topic, since the cover crop stuff I've read indicates you don't get the nitrogen 'til you kill the legume, except for a little that sloughs off the living roots.

    I believe you! But perhaps there is some limit to what you can get that way? Similar to another commenter, I'd love to see a test just like the one you did in another video mixing soil with wood chips and growing rye. But if you put BOTH clover and winter rye in there together it would be fantastic. If there was clover on one side of the pile and rye on the other, you would expect to see a green zone in the rye at the boundary. Maybe need to give the clover a little head start, though, to be fair, since rye grows so fast. Of course, it's easy to plan an experiment for someone else to do! And in November, no less 🙂

    Thanks Mark for all the great videos!

  7. Thank you..i'm just trying to feed my family from my backyard + chickens. I keep watching. I thought i could understand lol. I have leaves and chips free (natural resource) I just want my plants to grow, and have good soil. So am i to learn here to plant legumes? Plant straight in my grass?

  8. How do you determine if a plant requires endo or ecto fungi. You have changed my gardening style foreven. No more till. Thank you Mark so much for is information. Much appreciated. I am a home gardener that hope to do the right thing to the earth and enjoy the fruits of my labor and knowledge with others.

  9. I am not terribly humble nor particularly caring about youtube "personalities"… so I'll say it out loud: MIgardener is a hack. He usually only repeats what advertising claims tell him; he has very little knowledge or understanding about why things actually work or not. You simply cannot trust self–proclaimed eggspurts like him who always keep telling you to buy more and more fertilizers and crap. They don't know what the heck they're talking about. You will notice that in a great many cases they are sponsored by big fertilizer companies and/or just want you to keep buying all that garbage from them or through their affiliate links, so they get a cut of your hard-earned money.

  10. Very solid data…thank you for sharing this. You do a great job of sharing your knowledge on your channel and I can tell you have a great interest in what you are presenting.

  11. He sells fertilizer, it is his bread and butter. To admit you are right would undermine his business.
    Love how you use candy in your demonstrations :o) Sprinkles and marshmallows sweeten the message.

  12. Interesting video and discussion. As a home gardener, while I'm interested in the science of growing veggies, I'm primarily interested in results. I grow my veggies in no-dig, raised beds and only use compost (home grown and if I don't have enough, I buy in bulk). I mulch with anything I can get for free – leaves, dried grass clippings and/or wood chips.

    Years ago I realized that chasing the "latest, greatest" gardening approach is usually a waste of my time and resources. That doesn't mean I don't try new approaches in my garden but my requirements for trying something "new" are strict and fairly simple: first, I search for evidence-based, scientific field trials usually posted on domains like *.agr or *.agr; sometimes I will rely on credible less scientifically rigorous field trials and finally, I try to find a successful commercial gardener that uses the approach.

    My only significant change in my garden in the last 10 years was to adopt the "no-dig" approach. While the supporting theories behind it were interesting, what I liked about it was that I found several scientific trials that actually showed benefits (increased production, less watering, less soil erosion, and LESS EFFORT, etc.) Over two seasons I dedicated a portion of by beds to no-dig. Frankly, I didn't notice a significant increase in production or any improvement by any other measure, except that I didn't have to dig up my beds every year. Now that is significant!

    I grow approximately 100 lbs of tomatoes and maybe 50 lbs of peppers each season. Do I really care if a new method will give me a (relatively dramatic) 5% improvement? (That's 5 more lbs of tomatoes and 2.5 lbs more peppers). Well, I might consider it if the method costs me next-to-nothing in money or labor.

    That's my perspective as a home gardener. Thanks for the post. Cheers.

  13. If I plant legumes under my fruit trees will I need to plant densely under the whole canopy to the drip line or just at the drip line? There probably would,'t be enough sunlight under the canopy?

  14. I'm disappointed that the other channel didnt get his science guy that. He uses occasionally to weigh in on his contention.
    I cant rely on Laura Ingraham YouTube channel . She depends on a camera person who is so fixated on the doctor and not on the subject so I must depend on translators like you to understand her concept

  15. MI Gardener does yearly tilling and also inoculates his garden with Mycorrhizal Fungi…says he see a remarkable increase in crop yields from the Mycorrhizal Fungi Inoculations.

    How fast can the Mycorrhizal Fungi get reestablished after destroying the matrix from tillage? I cannot find a source that answers that question.

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