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Curtis Stone runs a commercial urban farm called Green City Acres out of Kelowna, BC, Canada. His mission is to show others how they can grow a lot of food on small plots of land and make a living from it. Using DIY and simple infrastructure, one can earn a significant living from their own backyard or someone else’s.
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Thanks Curtis for posting all that you do. You are a pioneer dude. I bought your book and it came in three days ago and im already half way through it. You’re very truthful, knowledgeable and inspirational. South Louisiana here, we’ll keep you posted on our progress.
Good idea to chop it up.. BUT to me looks like you and your guys are working too hard moving from stage 1 to stage 3 bin and then into stage 2 bin? Would be better to move it along so less travel and handling moving from 1 bay direct to the other so they are all next to each other? 1, 2, 3 also might help to speed it up if you cover the tops and sides with tarps the final bin anyway!
Very good Curtis.
Hello Curtis. If I may suggest a new way to compost without bins using pallets and is EASY to do with what you have already.
Just dump all your material in a straight row at least 2 widths of your BCS at layer 2 to 4 inch thick at a time. Then use to BCS to mix/ cut up this row but Not into the ground and water . What is NICE now is your NEW attachment on the BCS to control depth. This is cold composting does the same without the height and heat which you do not need. The heat is to compost quicker, which you do not need. And to kill of weed seeds which you do not need to do because you flame later. If you have any other concerns or question PLEASE ask, Mark
Curtis,
Question: What are the positives and negatives of harvesting microgreens by hand with a good knife vs the quick cut greens harvester? How about with bench clamp for harvester? I'm wondering what contexts might you see benefits in either strategy….
Best regards,
B
Composting like a mad scientist all hopped up on microgreens. I'm building a 16'x16' green house in the shape of Giza pyramid, Ill let you know how it works! http://rense.com/general17/pyramidpowersdis.htm
I like the technique and I think this is a good use for the old chipper I have out back.
Hey , what kind of cool little battery powered mini tiller is that?
Also , around 2:01 you mentioned y'all were going to "tarp" the beds . I assume for weed control? How long do you keep them tarped ? Thanks buddy. I enjoy your videos!
Tu broyes les micro-organismes à la tondeuse … Un compost doit se manipuler avec soin pour ne tuer aucun insecte … -1 pour la violence et ton mindset industriel ! ……………..Je ne suis pas étonné de te voire avec un sur-poids depuis tant d'année que je te suis … Va remuer ton compost à la main ou avec une fourche comme nos anciens … çà te fera perdre de la graisse :
Pauvres vers de terre … Ils n'ont aucune chance de survie après ta moissonneuse batteuse … et fais pas semblant de ne pas comprendre le Français ^_^ lol mdr
Great idea. Ever considered a Johnson-Su Composting Bioreactor, Curtis? Its basically what you doing right now, but with some added PVC standpipes with holes in them for extra oxygen. See here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MuW42tFC4Ss
Hello from Coeur d'Alene, Idaho – I think we have essentially the same climate as you and same rainfall – very cool to watch all you can do in your neck of the woods as we have almost identical conditions – though our soil is more like glacial till =) Thanks for all of your sharing and teaching!
I love that compost shredder!!
Hi Curtis, have you ever heard of JADAM organic farming? It's about microgranisms and soil etcetera… Interesting!
84 acres to share with the right fit family Ontario Canada.
You need to understand that when a compost pile starts to approach 3 feet high it also starts to slow decomposition. If you make the pile higher it will dcompose more material a lot quicker. If you use a pallet under the pile it will allow more air to move through the pile without turning.
Depending on the material you have to compost you can change it from greens to browns and brown to green. If you let green vegetation dry out in the field it will become more of a brown ingredient. If you soak brown ingredients in a waste water and rot they'll become green. Hope this helps.
I once used a front time tiller the way you use the Tilley. It would help mix greens and brown material and help to soak watered material before composting.
You could look into using forced air to aerate your compost piles without any turning! It can be as simple as burying a pvc pipe or two with some holes in them then blasting air through with a leaf blower or similar, whenever the heat in the pile starts to drop.
Damn curtis! Wintered over pretty hard with that gut 😛
I used to do composting similar to what you have here, but I found it dried out too much and took forever to rot. Now I just throw my yard waste in a pile and cover it with a black tarp. It stays moist and warm and rots quickly. To mix it up I put on the rubber boots and get right in it with a spade. When I have something wet to put in it (apples) I mix it with dried lawn clippings.
Curtis
would you consider growing a vigorous plant as a living fence around the edges of your property, to constantly have mulch/ compost, lots of chop and drop but for your bin(im not sure what varieties grow that great in Canada) It also keeps living roots in your land constantly but with your quick crop rotation im not sure how beneficial that would actually be lol- I dont farm at the moment but ive run into this problem too but im way further south so ive made my mind up mind on a combination of bamboo, moringa, and in my area mesquite is considered the weed of trees, its even destroyed machines, its so harty so im a little on the fence on that one
you are becoming more and more click-bait-y
I'm wondering if you have tried trench composting? it saves you having to locate a certain area for compost bins when it could be put to better use. I dig a trench and fill it with all scraps, grass, card etc etc then when its full just cover it with earth then plant on the top. This doesn't work if you want to sow carrots/parsnips there but anything else its brilliant. By the time you come to turn your soil over for the next season its gone.
Chickens could live off of that. I use chickens to break down all of my compost and food scraps, I add straw hay and steer manure at a dollar fifty a bag. Then I take that product and put it into a conventional compost heap, then pour doctored aquaponic water over it daily. My aquaponics system has a lot of fish and not a lot of plants so purging the system every day helps it be healthy. You could also have a pond with a bioconversion filter or biofilter basically just a bacterial Colony that converts ammonia to nitrite then nitrate. For example a hundred gallon pond with 10 koi fish could Supply you with 5 to 10 gallons of water a day super rich and bacteria which would help accelerate the breakdown of the plant matter I doctor up the water with sugars that accelerate the bacteria's break down and usually put it on air for the night. I make super rich Amendment in 3 months or less hot weather even faster cold weather much slower. With such an abundant source of feed and carbon I don't think I would buy seed except as treats or vitamins like omegas in whole seeds and no hay. I could see myself building a pretty efficient two sided chicken coop and your source is green matter so it would process much faster than the elements I am using, I'm pretty certain you could process one of those piles in one month and switch sides of the coop every month…
I'm surprised to see that you're not vermicomposting.
I've been doing that for quite a while so thank you for confirming my labor… I've got a Mantis tiller to do it with…
I like the plastic bag shin guards.
How do you know if it's too wet? Like if it rains… In order to prevent aerobic growth. Now did I see correctly you had some type of tubing in the middle of your piles on one of your videos? Was this giving it aeration like are getting down in the middle of the pile?
Are you still using peat?