May 19, 2024

VIDEO: HOW to TERMINATE WINTER RYE Before Straw Stage


HOW to TERMINATE WINTER RYE Before Straw Stage. Simple and Easy
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30 thoughts on “VIDEO: HOW to TERMINATE WINTER RYE Before Straw Stage

  1. Yep, that question is coming up soon… I'm tempted to try an old serrated knife slightly under soil-level, but I do also have a grub hoe/adze to try. It's useful to realise where I need to cut, thank you!

  2. I use winter wheat in my 5a growing zone. No need to remove it. Here in North East Wisconsin we have Short Springs (great lake effect). It just dies off naturally. And you could just let the chickens and bunnies out to have 'a field day'.

  3. A Kama Sickle will cut much closer to the ground, much faster. I cut the weeds in all my gardens like that, year long. Best tool for the job. And lasts for years. No need for power, no noise, you just need to develop a good technique. What you showed is a no-go for sure…

  4. That bit you did some time ago on the in ground stand of rye using the long hegde trimmer mounted to a garden rake was inspired. Did it grow back? Or did the tall cut part lay over well enough to prevent photosynthesis & re-growth?

  5. I was wondering who bought all the tulip seeds from Johnny's…….lololol couldn't you use cardboard over the crop? mine actually all die on their own. Lately I have planted like just a section of the raised bed and left open other areas for food., have you tried that? BTW I have been finding some funky looking black large square bugs on my sunflowers, do you get these?

  6. Thanks to your video last year, I'm leaving the purple dead nettle in this year for as long as possible. I have a bunch growing between two of my raised beds also that I'm not going to mow…

  7. Q. I am in SE Michigan. Why are you terminating the rye so soon? My winter rye is about 18-24" tall and I was going to wait until mid-May to crimp like in your June 4 2020 video. The math is tricky: maximize rye biomass, getting the transplants in on time. What are you planting in the beds? perhaps your transplants would grow well with additional biomass.

  8. Another interesting video. I am In central jersey. This fall was my first try at winter rye, i used it in 2 areas and It is amazing.
    One area I am working on correcting the soil.
    The other area is my garden. It is over run by mugwort and that purple nettle. I tried the winter rye hoping it would help fight the battle vs the mugwort.
    I’m hoping to mow it down low, and cover with cardboard in the garden.

    The other area, can I just leave it for the season?

  9. u vid about worm castings to stop damping off problem's was news to me. Ive used peat moss in the past with good results as well. i like u idea better because of the feeding of the plants better but casting are not so available and costly to buy if u don't raise u own worms Love u channel and always happy to see u posts. NC area here and im getting my hands dirty daily…love this time of year

  10. I've actually found a way to terminate rye without any soil disturbance. First, you cut it as low as possible, then you cover it with a deep layer of compost / leaf mold, then put a layer of grass clipping mulch ontop of that

  11. Mark, I did not terminate all of the Crimson clover in my small bed (22×18). Will the Summer Heat in zone 8 kill it off? Or do I need to go back and kill all of it Sort like the living root still scattered around.

  12. Very helpful video. Thank you. Our springs in central MN are quite short. I've had trouble getting the rye to die back so that I can plant. We have maybe one month after the snow is gone and the early cool weather crops are ready for planting.. Am thinking of cutting the rye down close, as you did, but then covering it with cardboard in hopes of killing it. Also, doesn't winter rye have allelopathic properties that inhibit the growth of other plants? Would that inhibit my vegetables' growth? Thank you.

  13. This was really helpful, Mark. Question: I just planted our fall cover crop — a combination of vetch, peas, beans, and clover — in a bed similar to yours. Here in hot, dry Zone 10A, the suggestion was to cut the tops (as you did) prior to the cover crop's flowering (to prevent re-seeding) and to simply stop irrigating. Does that sound right to you or would you suggest your approach (further weed-whacking, hoeing, pulling by hand), assuming that I don't need to plant immediately and that, like you, I don't want to till it in? Apologies if this was already asked below.

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