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Curtis Stone runs a commercial urban farm called Green City Acres out of Kelowna, BC, Canada. His mission is to show others how they can grow a lot of food on small plots of land and make a living from it. Using DIY and simple infrastructure, one can earn a significant living from their own backyard or someone else’s.
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Hey I am new to gardening and really trying to stay organic just came across this new product called pure protein dry made by organic AG products, its OMRI listed just wanted to know if you knew much about the product??
Thanks for the video. I will try the "two week with water tarp" idea. This year I did not have a budget for a Ripping Box for my tractor, so I cannot de-rock my 3 acres. I am doing compost raised beds by hand. To late in the season. I thought maybe weld some harbor freight crow bars to my 3 point blade. My tractor is 1944 Ford 2N and 1964 Ford 4000 category 3 PTO and I got a heavy duty tiller for $400 on craigslist that will not be used until I derock.
Another method in those areas are to cover the fields with woodchips and water it down. The soil beneath will soften up because it is the heat and drought that makes the soil into brick. If you heat your house with wood or grains you can take the ashes too and increase the alkalinity in the soil. Good for growing garlic especially.
Then you can clear paths and replace the woodchips with compost. You will now have raised your beds, but it will be level with the walkways made up out of woodchips.
Very effective at destroying your soil. No till is the future. Just rotary plough walkways to built beds and power harrow on top. Healthy soil = easy life
At my grandparents farm we have a very old rusted rotovator but still works well.its well over 50 years old and as long as I remember it's sat outside all of the time I've been alive.its just been covered with old compost bags.
Great video once again!
Do you have any concerns about creating a hard pan in the heavier soils by tilling at the same depth many times? We have areas that need a subsoiler pulled through it occasionally to break it up.
So Curtis, on plots where I could tell there is a lot of rocks and rubble, I used a digging fork to tease those rocks and debris out, especially since my rototiller is always a rental. Is this good enough or is it okay to go ahead and run that rototiller over that stuff? I want to confirm because I always thought it was a bit dangerous if I know there is a lot of rocks.
Another awesome video thanks. hows the farm property search going Curtis. Would love an update on your new venture.
If you were adding soil amendments, would you put them on and till them in on your last pass or on earlier passes to get it worked in more thoroughly ?
love how that handle on the BCS sweeps over so you are not walking on and compacting the soil you just loosened =)
I'm mulling this over myself. I'll be making a small flower farm on what was previously pasture. I think initially you need to break it up so you can form the beds. Just once though – after that, just put compost on top. Twist the old plants out, leaving the roots to decompose…
Question: Wouldn't you want to check for rocks/roots after your 2nd or 3rd pass, and then form the beds? Why or why not? Thank you for any answers.
Hey Curtis, have you ever had problems with birds in the garden? If so, what do you think the best solution is to keep them at bay?
My soil is hard pack red clay and rock. I use an old troybuilt tiller for initial groung breaking and tilling in compost ans soil amendments. Then i form beds. No real need to till after that. Broad fork bed and use plow feature every two years to raise beds and clear walking paths. Hope to get a bcs one day and a power harrow. Love the videos. Keep them coming.
Single blade plow on a small tractor here, to many rocks and red clay, breaking ground with a tiller here is an exercise in chaos at best, you better have some upper body mass ha ha cause your gonna be holding on for your life
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCaZiP1acqcFXJY-knlTa8Bg
You just committed GENOCIDE! LMFAO
While I am not on a scale to do this, and should re-read…. it would useful to have a process within this to screen out junk (roots, rocks, etc) from the mix. If the soil were tossed by the machine onto a rough screener with the holes/gaps sized to the need. And to also haul behind the bcs a wagon to drop amendments.
To break ground, it would seem that that a powered broadfork (plunge in and pull up and crack the ground) – variant on lawn aerator – could be a precursor step.
Does anyone have some tips on dealing with roots in the ground while tilling? Especially roots that spawn new trees?
So in South Texas with large rocks right under the soil surface, do you bring in a large machine, and then refill with outside soil after the rocks are gone? Is this feasible in a smaller urban plot if so?
Tu sembles si FAIBLE avec ta grosse machine …. le temps nous le diras mais tu évolue mal fréro, regarde la graisse sur ton ventre, tu involues …
So can I get away with NOT buying a BCS for now? I would really like to put off that purchase until I work out the kinks in my systems. I can have the land tilled with a tractor and rent a 30" tiller from the local equipment rental.
How much space do you need at the end of the bed to turn the BCS? Eliot Coleman mentioned 10 ft in one of his books, is that still the case? I’m setting up fencing to keep out deer and I don’t want to make the turn area too tight. Thanks for another great video.
I #love #watching you #work and give #great #explanations to your #process. I look forward to #visiting you for a #class when all this #covid19 stuff is #over.
the link is for a PTO thing only, what tiller did you put it on , was like a upgrade for any tiller?
I had a rototiller at least this size, would make 10 passes hardly touched soil.
I’ve always had better success going full depth if I’m breaking ground in clay soil. It’s just a matter of physics the the tines are slicing downward instead of backwards propelling the machine forward. The problem is compounded on the second pass if you have already loosened the soil on the first lessing the traction in the tires.