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Curtis have you ever tried using using a compost heap or bin to help heat greenhouses?
Plant them high they won't die?
could you identify the type of mildew on the tomatoes? if it's grey mould (botrytis cinerea) there's a great chance you can control it by inoculating the roots with certain strains of Trichoderma harzianum (T-Gro etc.). Maybe some other biocontrol products like Cease or Serenade could work.
A lot of people down here in Texas had problems too…I grew a couple tons then lost interest in making tomato sauce…I remember saying something about how early you got yours in I was impressed to say the least…I know your going to change your root stock this next time for sure…maybe try raising the beds into mounds with the rotoplow so your planting depth is still the same but above the water table…I farm in heavy clay and this is the only way to keep the roots dry enough to avoid disease. Just my 2 cents keep up the great channel thanks
Hey Curtis, its really weird but lots of growers here in Sweden have had a bad tomato season too. You should probably test your soil for mineral deficiencies if you are growing tomatoes on the same place year after year. Why dont you graft your tomato plants? It would definitely help. An unrelated question: why did you drop Sakura this season?
Curtis, did you dig out some of the plants to see how the root development looked? i wonder if the main driver was simply the combination of the higher than normal water plus the extra deep planting because of the height of the plants when they went in? planting deep is great when the soil is not waterlogged, but as you know, roots need air too. perhaps the lower roots rotted after the plants were large which created a stress on the plants?
I'm in Northern Illinois, and we had a very mild summer…but we had a ton of rain. I have 15 plants in a 5×3 raised bed, so one plant per square foot. I trimmed the bottom foot for air flow, and first time I munched them. My tomatoes were awesome and plants are very healthy. My neighbor who plants straight into ground got too much water and his yield was half what he usually gets. His plants were pretty much dead by end of July. Mine are putting out a second flush which is yielding more than the first. I truly think the water is /was the issue. He had blight very early and his garden is only 15 feet away. Mine being raised got it above the saturated ground soil. I think water issues are tomatoe plans worst enemy.
Love roger !
Can you show us how you plant your tomatoes and your whole system of the tomatoes
Check out Reimer's Seeds for cool tolerant varieties- the Siberia is supposed to set fruit at 40 degrees. It's been so cool in San Francisco this season that my Early Girls were 3 months late. Are you using fish emulsion and seaweed? Vitamins?
Verticillium wilt. My 70 heirloom tomatoes all died this season as well
Repetitive foliar applications of the probiotic lactobacillus (can easily be cultured in mass quantity in a weeks time for very cheap) has proven to be very effective against powdery mildew.. it should simply out compete it
All these people coming to your workshops, possible tobacco virus from a smoker entering inside hoop house? (may sound stupid but is only thing I can think of 🙂 ) ? We have high water table by Great Salt Lake in Utah, and tomatoes did awesome, where peach trees die, looks like you did everything right!
Do a silica foiler feeding every week the high pH will interrupt there breeding cycle and it will make your plants stronger
Also you could lime the beds to knock it down
With all the issues that Rodger listed, sounds like it was just a perfect storm waiting to happen. Thanks for sharing the things that don't work, some times I think there is no edge we can push past and it is good to show that there is a limit to what can be done space and timing wise. Here in Wisconsin we are finding tomatoes to be behind this year in production dates. It is what it is.
Soooo…. Michael Keaton is your tomato man?
Thanks for being awesome
Thank you for your string trellis method! My tomatoes are 9' tall now and I would have been screwed without that idea.
Others have said it Curtis, but I think you just are getting a pathogen buildup in the soil due to the same crop in the same place year after year. Heck, JM ought to be able to tell you about that. I think his early work stressed crop rotation. I would love to see a followup video on the topic if you get a chance to further discuss your investigations, but I think you nailed it when you said you think it is just a cumulative impact that is not starting to manifest. Break the cycle!
I use fulvic acid on my tomatoes, its a chealator so it helps hold onto minerals and nutients in the soil. It also highly decreases stress in plants effected by fungi and blights and kills them off.
The smoke from Washington and Canada effected the yield on all of my plants. Smoke chokes the life out of the plants.
I’ve always had the best luck tomatoes grown in more sandy well drained soil and plenty of air flow.
Maybe you can split the head of your tomato plant in 2, you will keep a higher density but the root will have less competition. You can graft a better root as well, you will have maybe less sickness and more production.
how do you fertilize the tomatoes?
The first yr I grew corn I thought more is better, I found shade, moisture and lack of air is bad combination
A lot of large-scale tomato growers graft everything. Maybe the problems you may have run into could have been prevented with a different root stock? Ever think of going that route?
Fans and foliar lactibaccilis application?
So now what happens to Roger because you’re not growing tomatoes? Will he transferred to something else?