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Curtis Stone runs a commercial urban farm called Green City Acres out of Kelowna, BC, Canada. His mission is to show others how they can grow a lot of food on small plots of land and make a living from it. Using DIY and simple infrastructure, one can earn a significant living from their own back yard or someone else’s.
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Music by Otis McDonald
I’ve taken to turning my hot compost only occasionally, (more at the beginning, then slowing down), and then transitioning it into a spontaneous compost worm heap once it’s cooling off (spontaneous because you don’t have to add worms). At that point I stop turning and start adding a gallon or two of food scraps every week or three, split amongst perhaps four or five shallow holes and buried lightly. But one small feeding is good initially before you have enough worms to spot them easily. It is amazing how many worms you will get (and casts – eventually a whole friggin’ heap!) I keep it tarped and cover the whole pile in leaves in fall. I’m in USDA zone 8b so not too cold or hot, generally. I love the heap method compared to worm bins, they have a spectrum of moisture that way, the heap rarely needs watered, and they can get away from the food/herd if they want but still have to congregate when they want the tastier food scraps. Starting materials for the compost heap is various mixtures of leaves, garden trimmings, food scraps, rotted wood, twigs, shredded bark and urine.
its called a bioreactor, and it takes one year. that makes it longer than traditional turn compost inoculated with mycorrhizal fungi for 2 months after compost finishes. Its lazy compost, but neat
How long do the air tubes stay in before getting removed and the whole thing covered? I'm also in a freezing climate (MT) and very curious. Great stuff!
Cool shirt logo. By Archimboldo?
I do the same, on a small scale with a regular black plastic dustbin with a lid. Dril holes in the bottom of the bin for drainage. Put in your mix of compost (shredded, small greens and browns). Wait for the worms to come or add some from your last compost. After summer three months the ready end product is about 1/6th worms and a huge amount of worm casts. You get a very fast compost cycle because the heat is not lost. It's low and easy to turn. It's beautiful, sweet smelling, crumble – like a woodland floor. And it's free – old veg scraps, weeds, newspaper, grass clippings.
Yes, I mix the pile on the ground and cover it after rain with a tarp. Same diff. Much less complicated.
Will you be returning to Stuart, Florida? I live very close. Would love to attend next time.
Can someone tell me or explain to me what he's talking about at 7:18 : a "Something" recipe of a highly fungus mix. And also when he says at 7:28 "Nitrogen is any green material that is less than a 10" .. A 10 what? What is this scale he's refering to?
So what exactly is in.it?
Cornholio!
Too bad I'm just now seeing this in 2020. I would have went to the event in Fl.
Its just a big wormer. Nothing new here. People been doing this for years.
How can I see these videos without supporting Youtube?
Would this get to hot in the Arizona desert?
Thanks. Great method!
Weird. The year MY compost guy died, the compost was AMAZING! They never did find his body tho…
New sub…you had me at bio-reactor
Did the compost guy get composted?
“My old guy’s compost sucked cause he got cancer”. Oof
I'm in Zone 4b up in Montana where winters regularly dip to -20 ˚F. Has anybody tried this system in a similar climate? I'm curious about moisture and issues with freezing in the dead of winter.
Cool, but doesn't make sense that it's only shrunk MAYBE 5%. There's 6-8 inches missing from the top. Finished compost is 1/3 the size of what you put in. So, what's going on here….? Even if all the feedstock particles that went into this were SUPER small already, it should have shrunk alot more already even if they are saying it's not done yet.
Only makes sense if he had two of these and once they were done hot composting he poured it all into just one, but that's not how it's presented here.
So, what did you put in there?
What are the incredible results? Are plants doing better that with other types of composts?
Overall soil health will improve by putting this stuff in. This is true of leaf mold and compost.
It's built for decomposing wood chips, but you don't say how much wood chips you put in. They take a long time to break down. Considering it was only hot for 2 months, there's no way wood chips could break down that fast.
How much is "a couple tens of pounds of worms"? What kind of worms? Red wigglers are the fastest eating, but the live close to the surface.
Only 4 months old? Worms couldn't been introduced into it until it cooled down, which normally would be a least a month. But you said the holes keep "it at that nice temperature" for a longer period of time. Worms can't survive at what you're calling a nice temperature. Even if you put worms in it after a month, there's no way that material broke down that fast and was consumed by the worms.
How wet is it 2 feet deep, 3 feet deep. It was watered and covered so it couldn't breath after the worms filled in the holes.
Most carbons are 60 and above. Nitrogen is considered less than 30. Not many greens or nitrogen sources are less than 10. Very confusing to say what's in it without saying what the actual ingredients are.
Another video on this fancy named composter (Vermicomposter?) designed by a Dr, but no results of plants grown in it or compared to other composts.
French Gravy! Poutine!
3 ingrediants to good compost:
1. Nitrogen 20%
2. Green 35%
3. Carbon 45%
OK, help a newbie out, what are you specifically using for those three ingredients? Chicken poop? Chopped up green branches for #2 and #3? How many worms are you adding? Who is mixing that monstrosity? When do you take out the PVC tubing? Thanks.
6:13 I wonder if that worm survived getting compacted with compost lol
The juice coming out of the bottom would be great to pour back into the pile or on the grow beds.
Thanks for sharing
A quick cheap workaround to having the heat silos installed in the compost pile: Using a stiff, long pole of any kind (mine is a square 1" landscape stake) push it to the bottom of the compost pile and begin circling it to make a much larger hole throughout the depth. The moist compost will be pushed to the side of the hole and stay there when you remove the pole. I drilled these holes 9" apart throughout my compost pile. After 1 day of drilling, I could feel the heat coming from the holes; temp difference 6" into the hole was 10+ degF higher than the surface, so it's working. As heated air rises, it's must be bringing in fresh air to replace it. Problem solved? Hope so.
Can you leave it out like that all winter long..I live in a high snow area
Great looking compost